I currently run an AMD Athlon 64 x2 5200+ on an M2N-E mother. I am wondering if I can simpy swap the current with an AMD Athlon 64 x2 6400+? I've scanned topics and picked up bits and pieces about CMOS re-sets and BIOS settings and the like, but I've not seen any boards like mine (the M2N-E). That must mean my board is junk or something!?

Anyway, about the only thing I'm smart enough to figure out is that my current BIOS is version 0702 that was created 02/14/07. The mother has nVidia 570-ULTRA chipset (so the box says).

I'm pretty green on this stuff and my learning curve is a bit slow. So, would the CPU swap mentioned above be nothing more than one out/one in ... or do I need to worry about CMOS and BIOS stuff (I'm assuming this is the "take the battery out, jump 2 pins, start it back up and you'll be in heaven")?! I'm sorry I'm dense on this stuff. What little I know figures to make me pretty dangerous to the well-being of my machine, so I thought I would ask first. Thanks very much for any help/suggestions.

Hi Pigiron - Welcome to ASUS Independent!

The x2 6400+ was released in August 2007. Since your BIOS was released about 6 months earlier, it probably won't recognize the chip. It won't hurt to try, though, and if it works, it would save you the trouble of flashing to the newer BIOS.

There's a 1202 BIOS out now for the M2N-E, that was released this December. To flash to the new BIOS, you download the BIOS file from the ASUS site and unzip it onto a floppy, or USB drive. When your machine is booting just as the first words appear on the screen, you hit alt+F2 to activate the ASUS ez-flash BIOS utility, point it to the drive where you've put the 1202 BIOS, and tell it to delete the old BIOS and install the new BIOS.

Thank you for getting me started cool_case. I'm in uncharted territory for me ...

I found and downloaded the 1202 BIOS. I unzipped it into a separate folder and find the 1202 BIN file and AWD Flash icons. My mother book says "save the BIOS file to a floppy " ... do I transfer the BIN and the AWD Flash or just the BIN? The rest of the instructions seem simple enough, but with me you never know. My only worry is "bad beeps" when I reboot. I don't know if I'm smart enough to recover!

Though I'm not having current troubles with my machine, it makes sense to have the most current BIOS (at least it seems like that should be true). I'm figuring I'll do this first before I attempt the CPU change so as to have the up-to-date "brain" for my machine.

Is there any reason to re-set CMOS before the new chip or will the AUTOMATIC settings in the BIOS just take over and do all that for me? (I pretty much leave everything on AUTO that's already there as I'm not sure what else to set anyway).

Again, thanks very much for your direction. Though I've browsed the forum for some time I'm just nervous about taking the steps that are, for me, a first leap into the unknown! I just want to be sure I don't muck it up.

I forgot to add ... what about chipset drivers? I see a v 9.19 on the ASUS website but I can't honeslty tell you what I have already on my M2N-E. Are chipset drivers worth worrying about or are we OK there??

Hi Pigiron -

Look at page 4-5 of your motherboard manual, which shows the easiest BIOS flashing method - using the board's built-in EZFlash utility. This won't require your using the AWD files that are for flashing. You'll just need the BIN file.

What's the name of the BIN file on your floppy? If the name has more than 8 characters in it, rename it to 1202.BIN so it will easier to find.

Yes - you're right - you should flash the BIOS with your current chip before putting in the new chip. That's a better ordering of the steps.

Your current chipset drivers should be ok.

The file is named

1202
BIN File
512K

Less than 8 characters so the utility will identify it OK? If all OK, I'll give this a shot in a bit.

Ok, you're good to go.

You'll select the 1202.BIN file in EZflash and say "yes" to over write. It will erase the current BIOS, rewrite the new one, and verify. Takes only a couple of minutes. Then, it will reboot. It should go fine.

I'll check back later - tied up for a couple of hours.

Wow. Flashed the BIOS and on reboot the thing just shut down. Tried starting a couple more times ... the fans run up for a few seconds and then it shuts down. I remembered a forum that talked about resetting the CMOS by unplugging power and pulling the mother battery, then doing the date and time thing in BIOS. Didn't know if that applied here but did it anyway. Looks like I'm back up and running. Man, this is probably nothing to most folks but did I ever break out in a sweat when the machine wouldn't start!!!! I am on the way to drying myself off (and perhaps changing boxers) so I can calm down. Geeeeeezzzzz.

I've got a deal called Check It Diagnostics that I think came in with Symantec software. Kind of a system overview I guess. I go to that and find the BIOS build date of 10-29-07 so I am assuming everything is current now. The next step will be the processor switch I guess. I do have some Arctic Silver goop that I borrowed, along with instructions for heat sink installation. I'm thinking I might tackle that later tonight or tomorrow. cool_case, thank you for giving me the courage. You being tied up for a couple hours is fine. I need to catch my breath I think! I'm learning, but ... it makes me nervous anyway.

Any potential pitfalls when I do the "cpu out/cpu in" switch? (Other than remembering the socket locking lever!).

Thanks again.

Flashing the BIOS even when you've done it a heap of times is STILL a nerve wracking experience, and I still break out in a sweat doing it.. cause you never know, the thing to remember is that when flashing always do it via the command life or by using EZ flash, keeping the RAM and CPU at default STABLE settings..Remembering to clear CMOS after its flashed, lest you soil your pants when it doesnt restart lol..

What everyone forgot to mention, and may be the source of your "no post", is that when you flash the BIOS all settings are reset to their defaults. Just go back into the new BIOS and set what you need to. If you can't get into the BIOS because it crashes too soon, do the BIOS reset thing. If that doesn't work, reflash the BIOS but this time use the DOS/floppy method.

Glad to hear you got it working! Like Paul said, BIOS flashing makes even those experienced pretty nervous too.

Changing the cpu:

- Don't touch the gold connectors with your fingers.

- A very thin coat of artic silver. Start with a a BB-sized drop in the center and spread it out evenly with you finger.

- To take off the heat sink, turn the 4 slotted plastic knobs in the direction of the arrow and they should pop up.

- The cpu has a notch, so it only fits in one way to match with the base.

- Make sure all four heat sink holders are in securely.

Good luck and write us back when it's done.

Thank you all for your pateince and help. The change is made. A bootup message told me there was a new CPU installed and to change settings. I went into that and verified the chip was being read properly, then said OK and it fired right up. No CMOS re-set needed. I don't know how to do any performance -*test*-('")s or anything, but BIOS and Check-It Diagnostics both read the chip OK and say it runs at 3.214 GHz. The Task Manager/Performance tab reads both cores on the graph (learned that one on your forum!). If she keeps running I guess we're good to go. I'll be back for more questions if it hiccups and goes to sleep.

Really a pretty simple process once you get through it ... and as long as the anti-perspirant is industrial strength.

Out of curiosity, I saw voltage reports in the CPU configuration screen:

Vcore 1.39
3.3v 3.35
5v 5.10
12v 12.56

I expect they have to do with feeding the CPU, so do those readings appear normal?

Anyway, thanks to all again for helping me with this project. You folks are the absolute best and I really enjoy reading all the topics.

My Best,
Pigiron

Great going, Pigiron! You've done well.

The first voltage is for the cpu @ 1.39, which is good.

The next three readings are the voltages on what are called the "rails". There are three levels of voltage needed for the components connected to the motherboard. The 5v is low- and medium-level fans, 12v is for hard drives and DVD drives, and 3.3v is for video cards, supplied through the on-board connectors - though high-powered video cards also require one or two 12v connectors.

These voltages are supplied by the power supply. The readings show whether the psu is working properly. As long as you are within 5%, you're ok. Your 12v is a little high, but within range. You power supply could be getting a little old.

Thank you cool_case. A simple project, but I gained the sligh-*test*-('") bit of extra confidence getting through it with your help. I'm sure I will learn much more as I pay attention and read the forum.

Thanks for the voltage info. I'm glad that's good too!

Reset your CMOS/BIOS, with the system unplugged from the wall, by removing the battery and then moving the jumper near the battery around. There is a set of three pins, with two covered by a jumper, right next to the battery. After removing the battery, you move the jumper from pins 1&2 to pins 2&3 and let it set for a few seconds, then reset the jumper back to pins 1&2 and replace the battery. BIOS will be back to default settings after doing this and you should get a good boot.

What are you doing with the 5200X2?