Vdimm voltage disparity:
The plot thickens (click on thumbnails below for larger image):
Voltage as set in BIOS, 1.82v
Voltage as reported by Everest UE (1.90v) and CPU-z (1.5v):
The system seems fairly stable. I'm letting it run 24 hours to settle in.
A few observations:
I've been using Primochill PC Ice coolant in the system. I've been disappointed in the amount of residue left by the dye in the coolant. I compounded the tendency of the dyes to separate in one loop by mixing blue dye with red UV dye to arrive at purple/UV color. Both dyes were Primochill products, sold separately as dye bombs to be added to their clear PC Ice coolant. Primochill doesn't sell pre-mixed, dyed coolant -- the coolant is shipped clear with a separate syringe filled with one's dye of choice. I think the UV dye didn't play nice with the non-UV dye, creating even more residue. My D-Tek CPU wblock was so badly clogged I'm amazed there was any flow.
I accept responsibility for that blunder, but there is no reason the coolant should leave residue in the SB/GPU loop. None. Yet when I've drained the loop to swap out components, there are globs of stuff in the coolant. Not good. Give that the dyes and coolant are not pre-mixed and that Primochill also sells its dyes separate from their coolant, I'm sure I'm not the first or last end-user to mix dye colors. Frankly, I don't know why mixing two colors would affect the dye's ability to stay in solution. Whether it's the dye's inability to withstand heat or a differing dye solution, something is causing the dye to precipitate out of solution.
I read up on some of the different coolants in preparing for a switch. Fluid XP seems to have the most thought and science invested in its composition. I've ordered 128 oz of Fluid XP Extreme to replace the PC Ice in both loops. I was able to thoroughly clean the D-Tek wblock, but the surface is slightly marred from use with a lapped processor. I have a new one on order through Petra's Tech (great source for watercooling gear -- incredible customer service).
I should have both the fluid and CPU wblock by the 29th, so will begin playing around with overclocking at that point.
I have been researching this stuff and am getting mixed messages on all the non-conductive products. The only one I haven't read any negatives on is the Feaser (Sp?) coolant but maybe that is because it isn't widely used. i wonder if it is just the dye or if the product itself is causing the clumping? When you get the Fluid XP may I suggest that you run one loop wiyh clear liquid and one with dye? I realize it is experimenting with some expensive liquids but it is the only way to tell. How are you going to clean everything up? Take it apart and rinse at the sink or flush with distilled water till dry?
Jason - I've been using XP since last summer. Not residue issues so far. When I researched it back then, it was the non-conductive that came out the best.
| QUOTE (Merc @ January 25, 2008 05:07 am) |
| i wonder if it is just the dye or if the product itself is causing the clumping? When you get the Fluid XP may I suggest that you run one loop wiyh clear liquid and one with dye? I realize it is experimenting with some expensive liquids but it is the only way to tell. How are you going to clean everything up? Take it apart and rinse at the sink or flush with distilled water till dry? |
Merc, I'm nearly certain it's the dye for a number of reasons. When I detected the blockage in the CPU wblock two weeks ago, I replaced the fluid in that loop with clear PC Ice fluid, as suggested. Because of the way the triple radiators are mounted, to remove them would be very difficult (they're bolted to the case, itself, and to one another with brackets). Thus, I opted to flush the loop with distilled water after draining it. I then flushed a second time with clear PC Ice coolant to remove residual distilled water before adding a new bottle (i.e., I flushed and tossed 1/2 bottle of PC Ice/distilled H2O). I also drained and cleaned all residue from the reservoir.
After doing this I ran clear PC Ice for one week with no problem. After adding the dye bomb in the reservoir and allowing it to circulate, I noticed a gradual slowing in flow rate. There isn't the degree of blockage I experienced before, but I believe when I replace the old CPU wbock with the new block next week, I will find some residue.
I ordered the Fluid XP Extreme edition in two colors. I believe, unlike the Primochill products, Fluid XP comes pre-mixed with dye. I wrote the owner of FXP before ordering, relating my misadventure with PC Ice. He was confident I would not experience this precipitation problem with his products -- even the Extreme line with the richer colors (blood red and deep purple were the colors ordered).
Prof. CoolCase, a question for your science department: would the infusion of a small amount of distilled water with these coolants create a problem (say a quarter cup or less)? I don't see how it could, but I'm not a chemist (yes, I will ask my significant other, the chemist, as well, but she doesn't work with watercooled computers). I ask because it's impossible to get all the distilled water out of the loop after flushing; although, I think I have most of it out.
Thanks JM. I think you have flushed about as well as uyou possibly could. I'd guess that distilled water, which is mineral free, and in the mnute amounts you'd have, would have a minimal to zero effect. email the guy at FXP.
Jason - the issue is the pH. Distilled water is closer to neutral pH that water, but not quite there. Neutral pH is non-conductive. When you change the pH of the Fluid XP by adding distilled, you'll make it slightly conductive. A relatively small amount of distilled won't change things much - say 5% or less.
Actually water is the best coolant - you just have to change it so it's not conductive and put an algaecide in there too.
Read this on distilled:
http://www.finishing.com/280/15.shtmlAnd you might find these two informative articles interesting too if you haven't read them already:
pH page:
http://www.overclockers.com/articles993/index04.asphttp://www.overclockers.com/tips1153/index15.asp | QUOTE (cool_case @ January 25, 2008 03:56 pm) |
Jason - the issue is the pH. Distilled water is closer to neutral pH that water, but not quite there. Neutral pH is non-conductive. When you change the pH of the Fluid XP by adding distilled, you'll make it slightly conductive. A relatively small amount of distilled won't change things much - say 5% or less.
Actually water is the best coolant - you just have to change it so it's not conductive and put an algaecide in there too.
Read this on distilled: http://www.finishing.com/280/15.shtml
And you might find these two informative articles interesting too if you haven't read them already:
pH page: http://www.overclockers.com/articles993/index04.asp
http://www.overclockers.com/tips1153/index15.asp |
My co-captain! Now you know why I volunteered him.
| QUOTE (jmkays @ January 25, 2008 10:03 am) |
The system seems fairly stable. I'm letting it run 24 hours to settle in.
|
Yes, dont do what I do, I cave in and cant help myself after about 5 minutes inside windows for the 1st time

I read a thing on distilled water being the best coolant anway, I think David showed me the article. Do you have a product called 'Toilet Duck' in the US? Put a few drops of that in there to stop algae?
| QUOTE (cool_case @ January 25, 2008 01:56 pm) |
| Actually water is the best coolant - you just have to change it so it's not conductive and put an algaecide in there too. |
Ahhgghhhhh! $160.00 of coolant later he tells me! Haha. Oh well. I'll have the pretty colors to taunt Ray with if nothing else.
Thank you for the info and links, David -- good stuff.
I didn't quite say that right. Water is the fluid that removes heat the best. However, you can't use water or even distilled water if you want a non-conductive coolant. So, you do have to pay for the added security to get non-conductive.
Playing around with distilled's pH to make it neutral, though, you could make your own. But, you'd have to be a pretty good chemist and it would take some playing and mixing.
I've pre-paid for an AMD Radeon HD 3870 X2 vid card. I should take delivery Tuesday or Wednesday -- just about the time I'm hit with a palimony suit when my significant other sees this month's AMEX statement.

I'll hold off buying a second until EK has a waterblock for the card (if I find I need a second).
| QUOTE (jmkays @ January 26, 2008 12:32 am) |
I've pre-paid for an AMD Radeon HD 3870 X2 vid card. I should take delivery Tuesday or Wednesday -- just about the time I'm hit with a palimony suit when my significant other sees this month's AMEX statement. |
Never let them see.

They just don't understand. tell her you could be golfing twice a week at $75 a pop with $1100 worth of clubs and out of the house for most of the weekend. Instead you are home and available and not picking up chippies at the 19th hole (been there and done that). As long as I keep it reasonable and get stuff delivered at work she is fine as the alternative is Merc on the golf course with the buds all weekend. No sane woman would turn that deal down when she knows my buds (EOD, Fliers, nasty authors, retired chiefs and some other bad boys)
Reality. Men need hobbies. The bigger the boys the more expensive the toys but hey, men need toys. When I was retiring from flying I spent two years on a motorcycle (Honda St1100, highly modded, and Iron Butt Association Member with 5 quals). At least with this obsession you are home all the time. Might be an a-hole when the system isn't cooperating (never to your babies) but my son can call out and I am there. So, yeah, this stufff ain't cheap but if you stay reasonable you aren't spending much more than most guys do on their various hobbies and you're HOME. Plus you can make some money on the side.
BTW, This is Merc justifying buying two CPU's he doesn't need. LOL.
Nasty authors? Do tell. Xavier Hollander or . . . ? And what's an EOD?