I've noticed it being much more accurate than +/- 5C. I have always compared it to a good quality thermometer when brewing. I haven't checked it in a while, but it seems to be working very well.

It might have a little sway in it but checking for hot spots on a MB it's pretty decent.

Superfly SuperPi :

[hwbot]09.922 - Core 2 Quad QX6950 @ 4721MHz[/hwbot]



Today I was able to hit below the 10s mark on SuperPi a dozen times, or so. Setting CPU FSB to 357MHz at boot with SetFSB used to bump FSB to 647MHz yielded the most consistent SPi results. I had four or five 09.953 second runs. To gain a little more speed, I booted at 360MHz FSB and used SetFSB to bump FSB to 650 MHz. SPi repeatedly crashed at anything above 648MHz, but I was able to pull off one run at 650 after repeated attempts.

That is totally awesome Jason, congrats!!!

Thanks guys.

It's a big learning curve here, but I'm finding it's much easier to OC the Maximus Extreme than the Striker (or at least my particular Striker. lol). Not quite as easy as the P5K, though.

jmkays/9.813s/Core 2 QX6950 @ 4.767GHz/6-6-6-18 (880)/Water/02-05-08
vCore 1.689v; CPU Pll 1.74v; NB 1.65v; FSB Term 1.62v; CPU GTL .63x; NB GTL .67x



This is the fas-*test*-('") Pi score I can coax from this particular QX9650 on H20 without getting stupid crazy.

Very nice!!!

Looks like SetFSB is the way to go for benching.

What are you considering for you daily speed with this system?

I won't run it at the 50% OC I run the Q6600 (3600MHz) -- probably 3.5GHz. I can run this at a higher daily OC than the QX6800 or QX6850, because it runs much cooler -- a good 15C cooler when overclocked.

3DM05 Score @4.341GHz, Non-SLI: 21,668

Not bad for running only one vid card. The score is nothing exceptional, but the fact the CPU completed the -*test*-('") OC'd to 4341MHz at only 1.56 vcore is encouraging.

Three-Mile Island Redux

The build sprung a second leak last night in the same place -- the 3/8" to 1/2" Asus converter barb. Through dumb luck, I was there this time when the leak began, so caught it before losing more than an 1/8th cup of fluid or so (funny thing, these leaks -- when under pressure the fluid loss is torrential ). Even luckier that this time it didn't give the processor and motherboard a coolant bath like the time before.

While I let Old Faithful dry out over the weekend, I've been on a quest to find a quality converter barb and suitable Tygon. I think "Tygon" is the key word. The mobo ships with inferior connecting tubing and barb. After the first incident, I replaced the tubing with a better grade tubing, but did not have access to Tygon or Masterkleer in the small town in which I live. The Asus supplied connector tubing literally cracked under pressure/heat. This second tubing, I believe, loosened under heat generated from overclocking.

My suggestion to all early adopters of the Maximus Extreme mobo: use Tygon and only Tygon throughout the entire system. If you intend to run a designated SB/NB/Vreg loop, running 3/8" tubing throughout avoids the adapter and leak issue (as our own Chuck, 'Leaving Las' Vegas did). For those of us electing to run their designated loop to cool the CPU with the GPU and NB/SB/Vreg assigned to the second loop, 3/8" tubing is not an attractive option.

I have been in dialog with a manufacturing rep from Saint-Gobain Performance Plastics, the holding company that manufactures Tygon tubing. Here is how I formatted my inquiry (with the assumption he does not have a working knowledge of our quirky hobby):

Is this what you want?:

http://www.petrastechshop.com/1odto3odbaco.html

You can get these sort of converter pieces from your local hosing and fitting store, I'm very lucky as I have one withing walking distance from my house

Places that sell hydraulic couplings and such will carry these. If you dont like plastic you can get these in brass and stainless too..

This is en route to you now Jason. I mailed it out yesterday so you should get it mid next week.

Let us know if this will work out for you.

I spent four hours or so contacting various manufacturers and resellers to research options for couplings and Tygon best suitable for the task of running 1/2 Tygon to a 3/8" barb. I do not want a repeat of the repeat.

Couplings

Typically, I wouldn't hesitate to use a normal, inexpensive adapter barb. I've gone a different direction in this instance because the CPU socket and motherboard are in direct line with any leakage from a faulty connection. I feel the research really paid off, because I came upon an advanced design, no-drip coupling intended for use in laboratory settings that is perfectly suited for watercooling system maintenance. These couplings allow one to disconnect tubing and maintenance the line at that juncture -- to drain or remove waterblocks. Here is the mfr product link:
Colder Products NS6 Series 1/2" to 3/8" No Drip Coupling

More detailed information is available on their website from their downloadable pdf format catalog: Colder Combined Catalog

In order of no-drip efficacy and descending cost, the product lines are follows: NSH, NS6 and HFC12. The NSH couplings are amazing, but a bit expensive at $150.00 per set (I would need two pair for the Maximus Extreme). The NS6 series are nearly as effective at 1/4 the cost. Still not cheap, but hella cheaper than replacing a QX960 and motherboard.

I spoke to a rep from Saint Gorbain -- mfr of Tygon -- and he stated that for the short run to the 3/8" barb, Tygon Norprene is the best solution. The con to Norprene is that it is more prone to kinking than R-3603 Tygon. The pro is that it has a longer life expectancy. Kinking would not be so much an issue with Norprene tubing 3/8” ID, ½” OD and 1/8” wall thickness, mfr # AFL00029 -- the 1/8" wall thickness being key. Unfortunately, most wcooling resllers only offer Norprene at a wall thickness of 1/16" (mfr # AFL00027): it's more vulnerable to kinking and must be used with Swiftech smart coils.

I like the "fat wall" Tygon. Doesn't kink, seals like a $200 hooker and never wear out. The thin wall tubing is very durable as well but you have to use the reinforcing loops on it for a long run. I really don't like couplings as they are built-in weak link in the loop and usually are hanging over something a lot more expensive than a $5 coupler.

Have you thought about going 3/8" on the second loop? I realize it is a big job but good lord, $150 per coupling when you are restricting the flow regardless is DoD spending. You could buy a little Swiftech 355 pump that is native 3/8" and run the whole loop very effectively with no couplings anywhere.

GPU and chipset blocks are very happy on a good flow 3/8" loop. I am running my two chipsets and the GPU block on that old Swiftech 350/reservoir i bought when i first started out watercooling and it is definitely overkill. I could add the Vregs, RAm and another GPU to that loop and with the 220 rad on the back i'd bet I'd see a 4c increase in temps max.

Just a thought but why fight physics. You're restricting a very high flow rate at a weak point and it has failed twice. $300 in fittings will work, I am sure, but you're still restricting the flow so why bother. Go 3/8" all the way and enjoy. If it goes up 2c you might just get to room temperature.

Hi Merc,

I wouldn't drop that sort of dough on couplings if they were restrictive of flow. They are designed with that in mind -- to not be restrictive in any way of flow, hence the cost. As you indicate, laws of physics will result in some PSI drop, but it will, theoretically, be a lesser drop than that resulting from using 3/8" tubing throughout the loop.

3/8" tubing is Plan 'B'

With my second loop, I can easily see adding one or two video cards to it. The flow rate right now is extremely high.

Merc brings up a good point. Maybe try the 355 pump and a couple sets of 3/8" barbs for the vid cards and such along with some 3/8" tubing. If your cooling performance were to decrease, it shouldn't be too much. The plus side is you won't have to worry about the couplings leaking.